At the Clinic, we have recently invested in current state of the art grip power testing technology…
This has been developed in Norway by Tindeq, alongside the famous climber Magnus Mitbo. To our knowledge, no other UK clinic uses this progressive technology to specifically measure exactly how much force can be exerted through a crimp, half crimp, full crimp, pinch etc.
We really are experts in finger injury rehab, and this ground breaking approach is yet another example of pioneering technology available to our clients.
Through Summer 2019, we will be offering open days where climbers can use our techniques to measure their grip power with this revolutionary equipment.
Finger injuries are a common barrier to the progression of climbing ability and intensity. The ambitious climber faces many obstacles, as do athletes of other spheres. The challenge is, how do you optimise that time after you know you are injured?
Well, most finger injuries resolve quickly with basic self-management of decreasing intensity of specific finger effort in climbing and avoiding specific loading for a month or two and the climber feels that reasonable progress is being made. This, in all probability, accounts for 70% of all finger injuries.
However, the finger injuries that present to us here, in-clinic, are the ones that are not improving or are recurring.
Out of these therapy resistant finger injuries, a large proportion are secondary to neck issues, many are due to chronic pectoralis (anterior shoulder) tightness, some are from inner or outer elbow issues and some are just finger injuries.
So, the challenge is to understand what sort of injury do you actually have; this is where our expertise lies. Through what seems to us be some very straight-forward, systematic testing, one can usually and very quickly, develop an appreciation of why your injury is not healing.
We are also practitioners of pioneering MSK Ultrasound Scanning, used to assess and view the nature of the tissue injury in the finger tendon, pulleys, collateral ligaments, joints or volar plates with far superior accuracy and confidence.